Casual Fridays #8: Michael McClure and Robbie Robertson

Working to look sharp for a rare evening out on the town can actually be easy. The tough job is trying to look sharp on a daily, casual basis. Yeah, you might have your Friday night suit at your beck and call, but what does it matter if you spend the rest of your time in target t-shirts and jeans? Every Friday, I'd like to offer up some style inspiration for tightening up your casual look, because let's face it... sometimes you just don't feel like wearing a tie, but still want to keep it sharp.

Alright all you Anglophiles, you may wanna sit this one out and go put on that Parklife record or something. This post is for the Americophiles! Specifically, those who appreciate American Beat culture and 1960s American rock!

Before getting in to the Mod thing, Beat culture was something that took up a lot of my reading time. Far into college, I still loved reading about Keroauc, Ginsberg, Burroughs, etc., and there was one image that always captivated me... one that did tie in to my Mod obsession.

Yup, this photo of poet Michael McClure, Bob Dylan, and Allen Ginsberg hanging out in San Francisco in the mid-sixties. Now, as much as I love Bob Dylan (especially this era of his career) and as much as I dig Allen Ginsberg, they weren't the ones who grabbed my attention in this photo. Nope, it was Michael McClure, looking sharp and stylin' next to his pals.

This was a photo that, early on, helped inform my attitude toward casual wear. Beats are generally seen as more scruffy and less interested in surface appearances, but someone forget to send McClure the memo. The three-piece suit (or, most likely, just a waistcoat with jacket) and tab-collar shirt done up without a tie (the only way you can wear a tab-collar shirt, casually) struck me as both dapper and loose, a look I've always loved.

When I was younger and thought there might be an expiration date to my Mod look, I pictured myself still dressing like this when I got older. Maybe not super Mod, but still as sharp a look as I could pull off as an older man. Heck, I even saw myself with slicked-back hair (my dad's hairstyle) and a large cross hanging off my neck!

For years, this image remained my favorite Beat image and McClure's style was something I still carried in the back of my mind. But then, I came across an even greater shot from this session:

Yup, turns out Robbie Robertson (of Levon & the Hawks and The Band) completed this quartet of cool! Check him out there on the far left, sporting pointed shoes, narrow trousers, wide belt with large buckle, button-down shirt, and three-button leather jacket.

Now, I'm gonna let you in on something if you don't know me personally. I write this blog and you probably think I dress up in a suit and tie from morning until bedtime, and even then, you probably think I sleep in a suit. But the reality is that most of the time, I'm dressing exactly like Robbie Robertson in the photo above. For me, that's usually as casual as I like getting. A pair of vintage shoes with narrow toe, sta-prest trousers (slightly flared), wide belt, patterned long-sleeved shirt, and a 3/4-length leather coat. Perfect wear for the Bay Area climate!

Granted, now that the weather is starting to get a bit cooler (finally!) and after having lost a couple of pounds, I may just start going back to the ol' suit'n'tie look on a daily basis. But chances are, if you ever do run into me on the street, I'll be sporting that Robbie Robertson look!

Alright, Anglophiles... did you stick around? Then let's give you something to appreciate about the good ol' U.S. of A. with some Levon and the Hawks, featuring Robbie Robertson!

But damn! I can't just end there...

Have a great, stylish weekend!

Sharp Stylings #45: The City Gent

We can learn so much from yesterday’s fashion icons.  And living in a post-Mad Men world means we can even enjoy aspects of current male fashions! Every Friday, I’d like to start your weekend off right with a little style inspiration from either then or now. Hopefully, my fellow Mod enthusiasts will find the whole or some detail of the whole to appreciate and maybe even adopt.

Okay, so it's not really a summer-inspired photo this week. However, this is the type of outfit made for a San Francisco summer... if you're in the City and looking out the window right now, you'll know what I mean. Plus, a super swank shot to inspire you for the weekend:


Photo taken from Gillian Long of Cock of the Walk bespoke tailoring.

 According to Long, this is "an old stock photo from about 1966 that tailors and cloth merchants would use in mens mags and trade mags. Most likely from Man About Town but I can't be 100% sure."

Sure, it might be a bit too 'city gent' for some, but there are just so many great touches in this entire outfit. Nice fedora hat with a short brim (my fave!), thin tie, checked suit with contrasting waistcoat, pocket square, and narrow, slightly-pointed shoes. All the ingredients of an immaculate look!

The suit itself is of a nice narrow cut all around. Three-button with a lower stance than I'm normally into, but which probably works to show a sliver of waistcoat when buttoned. Ticket pocket, which is recommended as often as you can. The trousers are tapered, but not too tapered or too 'skinny' (blech!) and also barly touch the shoe. Many times, people go for the high-watered trouser look, but here, the trousers barely carry a break with the shoe. A clean, unexaggerated look for your pants.

The last bit is the most obvious: the pattern of that suit! A small-checked look that's not too loud or crazy, but enough to catch the eyes of passers-by. What also helps is that the pocket square, tie, and waistcoat don't carry any patterns that conflict with the suit, so that the suit itself is what stands out. The only thing I'd probably change is the shirt. The collar is a tad too plain for me. I'd rather sport a tab-collar or pin-collar shirt to work with this.

Overall, a killer look and one I wish more Mod-leaning types would explore. And you know what? This guy's probably dressed this way just to grab a cup of morning coffee! Yes, I know this isn't really daily wear these days, but hopefully it's inspired you to ramp up your own look a bit.

If you're visiting a tailor this weekend, be sure show off this photo!

Sharp Stylings #28: Paul Smith Suit Styling

We can learn so much from yesterday’s fashion icons.  And living in a post-Mad Men world means we can even enjoy aspects of current male fashions! Every Friday, I’d like to start your weekend off right with a little style inspiration from either then or now. Hopefully, my fellow Mod enthusiasts will find the whole or some detail of the whole to appreciate and maybe even adopt.

Like I mentioned in the last post, a lot of great new clothes and outfit ideas for the modern Mod male today. For instance, take this total look from Paul Smith:

Originally spotted on the Fashbasha blog.

Pristine styling right here! Sure, this whole thing may be out of your budget, but take notes on the whole look going on here. Let's start off with the suit coat. Nice ticket pocket, which appears to have finally become a standard touch with today's new suits. Natural shoulders for a soft, mellow feel. And a 3-button front that is, believe it or not, the type of 3-button front I'm normally NOT into.

Sometime ago, there was a discussion on 3-button vs. 2-button jacket fronts. For me, it's not about the amount of buttons, but how high the gorge of the jacket front is. I've seen 2-button coats that button up high across the chest and I'm into that. But, I've also seen 3-button jackets that button up so low, they might as well have been only 2-button. The suit jacket above is almost an example of that. However, in this case the look works because it helps to expose the waistcoat underneath! The lapels could be slightly slimmer, but overall, it comes together well.

The overall color palette of this look is pretty drab, really, yet still carries some flash thanks to the floral shirt used instead of a simple white or striped shirt. This is the same type of shirt I mentioned in the last post, but this one is not as busy (or colorful) as its purple counterpart. The detailing of the floral pattern help give the tie a more dandied background without overwhelming the tie at all.

In the end, the power of this whole ensemble lies in the dignified tone of the greys balanced with the flash look of that shirt. All this guy needs to make this a perfect look is a striped and colorful pocket square... well, that and a better haircut and working razor.

2012 February Want List

I love vintage clothing as much as the next guy, but we're living in a time of some pretty slick NEW clothing too! Once a month, I'd like to highlight some nice pieces found on the internet that may be worth hunting down. 

Granted, some of these items may not be in any of our budgets, but who knows... some day, you may run across them in a sales rack or discount website. So if you like something you see, just keep tabs and wait for that sale! Or, save a photo and take it to your favorite tailor in the hopes he or she can re-make it at a fraction of the designer price. (Also, if there's a book or some music that looks interesting, I'll add to the Want List as well!)

So, the other day, I was having lunch with a buddy of mine (let's call him 'El Brando'). After a nice little meal, El Brando twists my arm (not really) to check out the local Paul Smith shop with him. Well, we're hanging out in there, digging on the socks, the books, and the coats when we come across the shirt section and find their floral-patterned shirts.

Wow! Some seriously beautiful pieces that I started drooling over... until I saw the price tags. "Don't worry, man," El Brando reassured me. "They have some on sale, half-price, over there." Yeah, half-price... still making my wallet weep. But, I did a little Paul Smith online search and found a floral slightly more affordable:

Paul Smith purple 'London' shirt... get it while you still can here.

Guys, this is the business! Amazing pattern, slim fit, great collar, and cufflink-accessible. A casual, colorful way to blow the ladies away! Moving on...

I've had my radar tuned in to Peckham Rye since coming across their shop off Carnaby Street back in October. They were kind enough to open up their doors to us even though they were closed and I felt like we were walking into a candy shop. Luckily, many of their items are available online! Unfortunately, it seems those items sell out quickly. However, after a general search for Peckham Rye ties, I did find this beautiful B&W floral tie:

Click here for close-ups and details on purchasing.

If you look closely at the tie, this isn't a printed pattern... it looks weaved and textured into the tie! Step up your look a notch and grab this awesome piece. Pretty neutral colors so it'll go with almost any suit color!

Guys hip to the current Mod market are already well aware of Art Gallery clothing. Based in the UK, they've been releasing some fantastic pieces of knitwear, including polos, roll necks, and cardigans. For instance, check out their 'George' polo in black, red, and grey:

'George' polo available at Art Gallery.

Now this is on my want list but, full disclosure, I've already ordered (and received) this piece! Soft merino wool in a great fit. What I like about Art Gallery is that they are making the most out of Mod detailing like the broad striping along the sides of the sweater. What I hate most about Art Gallery is that their clothes are made for tiny people.

See, I'm kind of a little guy (height-wise, not necessarily weight-wise)... yet their 'mediums' are too small on me! (I know this because I have one of their medium 'Steve' cardigans, in light blue, which only made me realize I should be eating dust and twigs 3 times a day.) The 'George' I received is a 'large' which fits great and will look even better once I complete a few more weeks months of pushups. Seriously, if you're an American 'medium,' you may want to order their 'large.' And I think it'll be worth it! I kid about the sizing but this sweater is really beautiful and filled with sharp style. And I do plan on ordering more of their items.

A couple of weeks ago, I went on about how I thought vests/waistcoats were an overlooked item of slick, casual dress. Well, over the weekend, I saw a buddy of mine (let's call him Dan Lake) rockin' a great vest that caught my eye and justified that post. Great guy that he is, Dan shared his source. Now, please, ignore the boy-band hipster underneath and try hard to concentrate on the vest itself:

Vest... keep your eyes on the vest offered by One90One.

It's hard... I know! You guys are creative though... imagine a dude with slick, backcombed hair, and button-down, cuff-link shirt under that vest. Okay, you with me? Now, let's move on to the waistcoat: high-gorged, flap pockets, with pick-stitching along those pockets... it's all in the details! This is how you make a vest. Unfortunately, looks like the product may be sold out for now but something worth noting, in case they come back. Or maybe you can use those details next time you visit your tailor!

Okay, guys, one last item for this month and one that caught me off-guard. Earlier this month, His Knibs posted about this new raincoat from, get this, Fred Perry. Usually, I don't follow this brand too much. Yeh, yeh, Mod icon and all, but still... for the most part, they're tennis shirts with a laurel on the chest. Lately, however, they've been releasing some nice vintage-inspired polos. And now, it looks like they're moving into new categories like the raincoat below:

Need more Fred Perry in your wardrobe? Start with this porcelain coat, here.

The color, cut, and shape of this coat look incredible! I have a thing for white or light-colored coats as they can provide great contrast to the dark clothing underneath. And what completes the total look of this coat is the 3/4 length... not too long, so you don't have to look like you're overdoing it on non-rainy, cool days.

My only issue with the coat is the Fred Perry laurel on the chest. Yes, it's standard issue with any FP, but this could have been better if the logo was used in a more subtle way. At least it's in white so that it doesn't stick out too much.

Well, that's it for this month. Payday's coming up for some people, which could be a good thing or a bad thing depending on how many bills you still have to pay after taking a look at some of these items.

Sharp Stylings #26: Aloe Blacc

We can learn so much from yesterday’s fashion icons.  And living in a post-Mad Men world means we can even enjoy aspects of current male fashions! Every Friday, I’d like to start your weekend off right with a little style inspiration from either then or now. Hopefully, my fellow Mod enthusiasts will find the whole or some detail of the whole to appreciate and maybe even adopt.
 
Lest you think I'm just about Mod dudes wearing suits 24/7, I thought I'd spend today on a casual style I seldom see Mods in. Usually, when I think of casual Mod wear, I can't get Fred Perrys out of my head. But take a look at new soul artist, Aloe Blacc, here rockin' the vest look:

Taken from Brooklyn Vegan, which has other great shots at their site.

Guys, sometimes slim pants, nice shirt sans tie, waistcoat, and a hat can be all you need to strut out on the street for grocery shopping. In the case above, Blacc does a great job mixing and matching dark pants, light grey vest, and a baby blue shirt with the hat to match his pants. And notice what makes Blacc's vest even more sharp here: it buttons up high on the chest with a higher gorge. If you're going to try this look, shoot for vests with a higher gorge.

Sure, the shirt could look nicer with a button-down collar, but that's not the point here. This is just a nice, sharp look that's a step (or two) up from the standard short-sleeve polo, jeans, and sneakers (trainers) Mods tend to be content with. And no tie required! Most photos I found of Aloe Blacc show him in different casual waistcoat combos and I'm all for it.

And if you're not familiar with Aloe Blacc, who started getting major attention with his cover of The Velvet Underground's 'Femme Fatale,' you need to check him out in the below video, sporting a slick, earth-toned, vest-motivated outfit. Plus, the kid in the video, actually sporting a pocket square in his own vest, will put some of you dancers to shame. (Speaking of which, excuse me while I study both these guys' dance moves!)

Sharp Stylings #6: Barry Gibb

We can learn so much from yesterday’s fashion icons.  And living in a post-Mad Men world means we can even enjoy aspects of current male fashions! Every Friday, I’d like to start your weekend off right with a little style inspiration from either then or now. Hopefully, my fellow Mod enthusiasts will find the whole or some detail of the whole to appreciate and maybe even adopt.

A while ago, I read though Jeremy Reed's recent John Stephen biography, and was struck by the following image:

Stare into my eyes... when you wake up, you will love disco music in 10 years.

Yup, that's Barry Gibb of the Bee Gees dapperfying your screen. He is wearing a white jacket, white shirt & tie, and white pocket square contrasting with, according to the book, cherry red waistcoat and pants. The only thing that bothered me about this photo? It's in black and white! (In fact, for a book about colorful Carnaby Street, there weren't ANY color photos.)

For me, though, this outfit struck all the right chords. But what killed me even more, and set me off on my current outfit goal, was Gibb's plan with John Stephen. He decided to have three 3-piece suits made: one in white, one in red, and one in blue. The idea behind this was so that he could then alternate the pieces and have a different outfit every time he went out! It's no wonder Barry Gibb won a John Stephen Fashion Award for Best-Dressed Man in 1968! (And yes, you do want to click that link, trust me.)

Yeah, this image sent me on a mission and part one of that mission has been completed. This week, I acquired a white suit! Well, off-white really.

Speaking of which, tune in on Monday for a Labor Day white suit post!

Sharp Stylings #4

We can learn so much from yesterday’s fashion icons.  And living in a post-Mad Men world means we can even enjoy aspects of current male fashions! Every Friday, I’d like to start your weekend off right with a little style inspiration from either then or now. Hopefully, my fellow Mod enthusiasts will find the whole or some detail of the whole to appreciate and maybe even adopt.

There's a lot we can take from fashions and styles that aren't necessarily 'MOD!' Often, I see guys out there pullin' out the works and I'm not afraid to learn from them. A lot of Moddishly-oriented guys should take some cues from other stylish looks out there as well. After all, as Kevin Pearce wrote in Something Beginning with 'O' (1993), "Mods were magpies. They took the best from wherever..."

Take a look at the dapper happening right here with this gentleman, one Theodore Crispino:



Photo by Sarah Slobada at http://sarahsloboda.com/.*

Beautiful, muted browns with a waistcoat that reinforces the motif and a red/purple/orange paisley tie to complement the whole ensemble. Imagine how well you'd stick out walking around a club in a similar outfit amidst a sea of black suits and parkas. Sting would have nothin' on you! Another thing I like about this fellow's suit is the lapel peak. It just adds to the overall clean, 'sharp' vibe of the whole look. And the surgeon's cuffs... nice bespoke detailing to complete the image.

I understand many guys out there dig the simple, but classy black suit look. However, if you're going to go that route then you need to nice up the details. You can't just show up in an off-the-rack black suit, white shirt, black tie without making sure the shirt, jacket, or tie has some sharp detailing or, better yet, some bespokeness to it. Otherwise you're lookin' straight up Reservoir Mod. And a bland one at that.

My overall advice if you're going the black & white route: add a dash of color somewhere, either with the tie, a pocket square, or, heck, your socks. But even better, invest in some new suit colors!

*Sarah kindly granted me permission to use this photo so I encourage you to visit her site and blog, particularly this post for more shots of cool: http://sarahsloboda.com/2011/06/suited-up/