Friday, September 30, 2011

Sharp Stylings #10: Raphael Saadiq

We can learn so much from yesterday’s fashion icons.  And living in a post-Mad Men world means we can even enjoy aspects of current male fashions! Every Friday, I’d like to start your weekend off right with a little style inspiration from either then or now. Hopefully, my fellow Mod enthusiasts will find the whole or some detail of the whole to appreciate and maybe even adopt.

I love Oakland, CA. Great neighborhoods, great walking routes, great restaurants, great bars, great shopping, and, oh yeah, great style! Don't believe me? Well, take a look at one of Oakland's most stylish sons: Raphael Saadiq!

Raphael Saadiq first made his mark as one of the lead singers of 1990s R&B band, Tony! Toni! Toné! In a time when modern R&B sucked out loud (and still does, really), they had a fantastic little song called "If I Had No Loot" that I dug then and dig still.

But Saadiq has hit the scene hard in recent years with his Motown-style brand of soul music that has been utterly incredible! I'm not much of a music writer, so I'll stop now, but if you haven't yet please track down his The Way I See It album and the new Stone Rollin'.

Today, I just want you to focus on his '60s-inspired sharp, clean look. There he is above, rockin' a dashing mustard suit with slim pants and a thin tie. But what's most incredible about this shot are THOSE CUFFLINKS! Bold, large, gaudy wrap-arounds with a jewel in the center... my absolute favorite style of cufflinks! With cufflinks like that on, I'd be checking my watch every 5 minutes just to get another glimpse at them.

Seriously, Raphael Saadiq is, hands down, one of the most stylin' dudes around on the current music scene. And if you haven't seen the guy in action yet, well, treat your eyes and ears to this:


Oakland represent!

[PLEASE NOTE: For the next two weeks, the Mod Male offices will be closed for vacation. Posts are still scheduled to go up every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday so please continue to check in. The Mod Male Facebook page will be quiet, however, so if you see a post you like, please share with your friends since we won't be able to. Thank you and have a great next couple of weeks!]

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Mod Gone Wrong: Scooter Madness

Okay, when does one cross the line into self-parody?
Want this photo on your wall? Just go here!
Hey, I'll give this guy credit for having the chutzpah, not to mention time and dedication, to blanket his scooter like this. Seriously, it's an insane feat of energy to get a bike this blinged-out! I just can't quite figure out what he's using to weigh the back of the bike down for balance... I mean he's not a big guy!

I understand that decking out your scooter is a unique thing to Mod culture and something that really helps identify the look. But I have always wondered when you know you've reached the "too much" mark. It was refreshing to hear, a while back, the attitudes of some of the original Mod(ernists) in regards to scooters. Many didn't adorn them this heavily (or at all) and some had no problem moving on to slicker cars when they had the ability. Scooters were an inexpensive way of getting around, and although you wanted to keep a nice bike, you didn't worship it. Along those lines, I subscribe to the Booker T. way of thinking: less is more.

Although I'm not into this style of decking a bike up, I really do hope it's on display in a museum somewhere. I'm getting down on the poor kid, but he must have blown his friends' minds when he first pulled up on this.

Monday, September 26, 2011

The 1990s 'Mods' Documentary

Things will be a little slower around here over the next 3 weeks or so. In the meantime, word-lite posts should still be going up and if you see anything you like, feel free to share it on Facebook or wherever else things are shared online since the Mod Male Facebook page will be quiet during this time. (Oh, if you haven't yet, just look over to right-hand side of your screen and click the "LIKE" button to get on the Facebook page!)

So, for today and the next few Mondays, I'm taking the easy way out and letting videos do the talking for me (for the most part). Today's video is a Mods documentary, directed by Rob Poswell and filmed in Sacramento and Berkeley, CA back in the early 90's. I'm sure many of you have seen this on YouTube already, but it's worth checking out again.

When I first moved to the Bay Area, this video was passed around on VHS and I was really taken with it. Not only did it feature people I knew and looked up to, but it was the first film (other than Quadrophenia) that captured the Mod thing for me at the time. It was filmed well, had great music, great quotes, and looked all-around cool to me.

It begins with the great intro: "I was a mod back in 1963. It was a bit different. Much different than rockers or teddy boys." It gave the film a feel of authenticity since an original 1960s Mod was quoted on tape. My fave part of the film, though, featured the Berkeley Mod scene of the time dancing to local Mod band, the Motives. I'd sit there picking out people I knew and wondering where others had gone. And the Motives on stage... they looked slick! It made living in the Bay Area more exciting just to think that this was stuff going on. Granted, this had all been filmed the year before I moved up, with things and people having changed since then.


Since that time, my own thinking and opinions on Mod stuff as changed or, hopefully, grown. That said, this film still really holds up for me. It looks stylish, as a Mod film should, and carries with it ideas that still hold well today. My only criticism of the film is that new music plays over the main scooter scene. The director of this film is a great guy, but he pulled a George Lucas re-dux for that part! NOOOOOOO!!!

When I first saw this, there was a quote in there that really struck me, and watching this film again today, it's one that still resonates: "To be a Mod, you have to be a Mod 24 hours a day. 7 days a week. The whole bit. You're just not a Mod on the weekends."

At my age, I'd sound a little cheesy talking like this and I don't think I am that guy walking around shouting "Mod! Mod! Mod!" all the time (contrary to the impression left by this blog), but I still believe in the idea of doin' this thing 24/7 and always looking to improve.

Friday, September 23, 2011

Sharp Stylings #9: Shoe Edition

We can learn so much from yesterday’s fashion icons.  And living in a post-Mad Men world means we can even enjoy aspects of current male fashions! Every Friday, I’d like to start your weekend off right with a little style inspiration from either then or now. Hopefully, my fellow Mod enthusiasts will find the whole or some detail of the whole to appreciate and maybe even adopt.

Oh, what, you thought I was done talking about shoes?

Permission to use this photo very kindly granted by Lloyd Johnson, one of the original Modernists.
Earlier in the week, I spoke of my love for chisel-toed shoes. Well, they don't get much more chiseled than these! Just take a look at the beautiful detailing in the shoes above: suede/leather combos, slip-ons and lace-ups, beautiful heels, wingtips and stitched designs... seriously, with shoes like these around, how on earth did the desert boot become the Mod shoe staple?

If there are any shoe designers out there, hope these serve as some inspiration. Alright... I promise, next post will be shoe-free! I know, I know... you probably don't want it to stop either, but it's time to move on.

Now excuse me, I'm off to find a cobbler!

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Mod Gone Wrong: On the Topic of Shoes...

When I was a wee little Modnick, back in high school, I TOTALLY wanted a pair of Union Jack shoes! Remember those Shelly's Jam stage shoes (is that right?)? I thought they'd be the coolest things ever as I strutted around school with those on along with my (again) highwater, tapered Dickies, Fred Perry, and parka covered in patches and pins. Heck, I even wanted a Union Jack 3-button blazer. (And all kidding aside, let's be honest... the Union Jack really is a great design.)

But that was then and this is now and the truth is, I ain't British. I wouldn't be caught dead walking around in Union Jack shoes. That said, is it me or are these actually kind of cool?

More info on these from Flickr.
According to the Flickr page, they were made in 1953! I think the shape and construction of the shoe is what makes it for me. Still, nope, wouldn't wear 'em. At my age, they'd be just a bit too overkill. Now if they were in a Mexican flag pattern, well...

Let's do one for the ladies now. We all love Mondrian patterns, I know, but this might be taking it a bit too far:
More awesomely crazy shoes can be found here.
QUESTION: What are some of the WORST shoes you've seen?

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

From Velcro to Chisel-Toe

Never count DSW out... found these awesome NEW shoes there!
Photo courtesy of Carrie Swing at http://carriedawaywithvintagegourmet.blogspot.com/.
Okay, enough with old memories... let's bring this blog back to what I wanted to focus on in the first place: clothes! Specifically, let's talk about shoes. Mod shoes... starting with an old memory.

When I was MUCH younger, all I needed in a pair of shoes were some good ol' Velco straps. I was a no muss, no fuss kinda kid... toss a pair of shoes on, velcro them up, and off to play with my buddies. That changed in the 7th grade. As the idea of 'cool' was becoming painfully apparent to me, my parents kindly bit the big one and invested in a pair of white, round-toed Reeboks for me. Of course, by the time I got them, the shoe trend had moved on to British Knights (BKs).
Yes, I admit it. I once wore shoes this ugly.
That Halloween, my buddy Robert showed up in a kind of costume: white t-shirt, spiked hair, and green make-up. He was a 'crazy person,' if I remember correctly. What really caught my eye, though, were the shoes he was wearing: his older brother's grey and black, pointed Na-Na creepers. I thought these things were the coolest shoes EVER. He then told me that you could buy shoes like these at a magical place called Melrose. (Of course, I thought he was talking about an actual store.) Unfortunately, however, I had to live out the rest of my 7th grade life in those Reebok tennis shoes. 7th grade... the last time I ever wore tennis shoes again as a daily part of my wardrobe.

I started the 8th grade out in a type of grey casual shoe that I saw the Filipino dudes at my school wear. Nothing special, but I thought they were pretty 'hip' since they weren't tennis shoes. But they were nowhere near as hip as my birthday gift that year: a pair of black and white, pointed Na-Na creepers with a buckle and the stitching on top! Sure, I had to endure an entire day of getting picked on the first time I wore them out, but hey! Isn't that what being 'different' and 'anti-society' was all about back then? (And yes, that day was going absolutely miserable until my skater/new wave friends started complimenting the shoes!)
Can't tell you how many times I heard kids yell out, "Hey Frankenstein!" (Ironically enough, creepers were "in" the following year.)
My next big shoe purchase was a gift for 'graduating' from the 8th grade: a pair of Dr. Martens! I can't remember how I had heard of these, but I do remember them being a big deal to have if you were on the 'new wave/punk' tip. So, I picked out a great lace-up pair in black leather with a pointed toe and stitching along the top, exactly like my creepers but without the 2-inch sole. I felt like I had finally hit 'ultra-cool' status, what with being the first kid in my 'clique' with Dr. Martens and all. Unfortunately, these came at the end of my junior high life.
I dug these shoes so much that I wore them from the ending of the 8th grade up to my first year in college!  And hey, these shoes were for sale a year ago... and they were considered 'vintage!'
I was sold on Dr. Martens after these and ended up buying 2 more pairs at a Na-Na sale in Santa Monica right before 9th grade started: one gray lace-up pair with a pointed toe, and a second pair with a pointed toe and buckle, in marble blue leather. Unfortunately, these shoes were pretty large for my still growing (but not by much) feet. Still, I wore them around school and didn't care what people thought. Not so sadly, these were the last pairs of Docs I ever got, never veering into boot territory, because after this, I was on the hunt for 'Mod' shoes!

And by Mod shoes, I mean loafers. And by loafers, I don't mean Bass Weejuns, but rather whatever penny loafers I could find at the Buster Brown shoe store in the local Puente Hills Mall. Man, I can't tell you how cool I thought I looked in those penny loafers, along with white socks, high-water tapered Dickies pants, and burgundy flight jacket with ska/mod pins! Shortly afterward, I moved on to a slicker form of shoe... the kind meant for suit-wearin': wing-tipped tassle loafers! Oh man... rude girls, prepare to swoon! (No, no swooning was ever done.)
Then I moved to the Bay Area and it was here that I really fell in love with shoe wear... actual Mod shoe wear. Aww... I still remember it like it was yesterday. I found my first pair of 1960s pointed ankle boots on Telegraph Avenue at Wasteland (before it was called Mars Mercantile) and these started an obsession with '60s pointed and chisel-toed shoes that I still have to this day. Sure, I went through bowling shoe and Jam 'stage shoe' phases. Had to get these out of my system, because after this, it was all '60s-styled shoes for me!

Back in college, I almost passed by one of my now favorite pairs of shoes: a total suede and leather Carnaby Street number. A buddy and I were in Mars Mercantile one day and he was kind enough to point out this pair of shoes in the women's section. I dismissed them without even looking until he brought them out. So glad he did because $10 later, I had these:
Sigh... unfortunately, when you get cool shoes you can either store them away for safekeeping or... wear them. As you can tell, I've worn these.

Then came the Bay Area Vintage Shoe Glory Days! One day, around 8-9 years ago (yikes!), a bunch of us were spending our happy hour at the Casanova Lounge in San Francisco. My pal, Jason Ringgold, and I decided to take a break and walk up to Clothes Contact where you could buy clothes by the pound. We were surprised to find a beat-up pair of absolute cool sixties Mod shoes. They were relatively plain but with a nice chisel-toe (imagine a pointed shoe with the tip of the shoe cut off). After snatching them up, we found out that the owner of these vintage shops had come across a warehouse in Germany with dead-stock '60s men's shoes! For the next several years, we were finding a pair here, a pair there... it was absolute shoe heaven for us! My personal shoe collection grew with the following:
Ya can't beat leather and suede combos!
Love the detailing on the sides.
My Small Faces shoes... but these were hand-me-downs from Mike Therieau, not a part of the German warehouse stock.
Soon, us Bay Area Mod dudes were classin' up sidewalks all over town! Eventually, this surplus dried out, but every once in a while, you can still find a pair from this old stock. In fact, about a month ago, I found these:
Suede and leather again... SH-BAMM!
I'm still totally obsessed with 1960s-style pointed-toe and chisel-toe shoes. I'm not as into the winkle-picker points as I used to be and I'm still not into heavy boots of any kind (i.e., Dr. Marten boots, monkey boots, etc.) or desert boots, as I've discussed before. No, I like my shoes narrow, with some cool detailing, a nice toe, and all-around slick!

Now, allow me to get a formality out of the way: Mod shoes. Mod shoes. Mod shoes. Mod shoes. (There. Now when people from the future do on-line searches for 'Mod shoes,' hopefully they'll be pointed here instead of some company selling bunk bowling shoes.) Mod shoes.

QUESTION: If you have a moment, please leave a comment describing your favorite pair of shoes. And this isn't just for the male Mods in the audience. Or Mods, for that matter. Just in general, what's your favorite shoe?

Friday, September 16, 2011

Sharp Stylings #8: Raymond Hawkey

We can learn so much from yesterday’s fashion icons.  And living in a post-Mad Men world means we can even enjoy aspects of current male fashions! Every Friday, I’d like to start your weekend off right with a little style inspiration from either then or now. Hopefully, my fellow Mod enthusiasts will find the whole or some detail of the whole to appreciate and maybe even adopt.

Let's spend some time today diggin' on Raymond Hawkey (circa 1970) cold loungin' on a Saarinen chair and table.  First off, like I've said before, guys into Mod style should NEVER be afraid of color. Here, he beautifully blends the muted blue shirt with a fantastic muted earth-tone tie which also includes baby blue stripes to match the shirt. The lavendar/blue pocket square brings it all together in a nice package wrapped up in a dark suit with clean, thin lapels and nice slim pants! Just a beautiful combination all around, including his cufflinks, which you can see in a B&W photo from this session in the new Brian Duffy photography book. The way he's put this whole outfit together, you'd think he had the eye of a graphic designer. Oh, wait! I almost forgot... this is Raymond Hawkey we're talking about... one of the most influential mid-century graphic designers!

Hawkey is most known for how he helped revolutionize book cover design, not to mention graphic design in general, in the late 1950s/early 1960s. By blending sans serif typography with photographic elements (something not done at the time), he helped create a visual style that still lasts to this day. I'm sure many Mod-oriented graphic designers today would recognize the influence of his style on their work.

The first book design to hit the public's eyes was the cover to Len Deighton's The IPCRESS File, which was considered shocking at the time:
Some other Hawkey designs include covers to subsequent Leighton books along with those featuring most people's favorite super-suave spy:

Raymond Hawkey passed away last year at the age of 80. And from the obituaries I've read, he remained dapper and well-dressed until the end. According to the Guardian, he never owned jeans or trainers. Heck, I wish I could make the same claim! But one thing I can learn from Hawkey, aside from his great designs, is that you don't let age get in the way of looking sharp.